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Black History Month, celebrated in October in the UK, is a time dedicated to honouring Black heritage, culture, and the struggles and triumphs of Black communities. A significant but often-overlooked aspect of this history is Black hair. In this post, we delve into the deep history of Black hair, its political importance, and the ways it links the experiences of Black British and Black American communities.
The Historical Significance of Black Hair
Black hair has long been more than just a matter of style. For generations, hair has been a symbol of identity and cultural heritage. In African societies, hair was seen as a symbol of identity, status, and spiritual connection. There was a wide range of different hairstyles worn across tribes and regions to symbolise age, marital status, religion, and social rank. Intricate braids, twists, and other styles that are popular today have been passed down through generations, serving as markers of cultural pride and heritage.
However, after the arrival of the transatlantic slave trade, Africans were stripped of their identity and culture. Enslaved Africans were often forced to shave their heads to conform to European beauty standards. Despite efforts to erase African heritage, Black people found ways to maintain their cultural ties, preserving hair traditions in secret or adapting them into new forms.
A significant hairstyle during slavery was cornrows. Cornrows were used as a means of communicating in code. Written messages and maps were coded in cornrows, for example, particular numbers of braids indicated a certain escape route or meet-up time.
This style was also used to hide gold fragments, rice or seeds in order to sustain the wearer after their escape.
Afro Hair as a Symbol of Resistance
Black hair is also a key symbol of resistance against oppression. During the civil rights movement in the UK and the US, Afro hair became a symbol of empowerment and resistance. The 1960s Black Power Movement in the US helped popularise Afros and other natural hairstyles as an expression of pride and self-love whilst challenging Eurocentric beauty standards. This movement helped spark a shift around Black beauty in many different places and wearing natural hair became a powerful statement against societal norms. In the UK, this movement helped Black Britons, embrace their natural hair as an expression of cultural pride and a powerful act of political resistance.
Discrimination and Eurocentric Beauty Standards
Despite the growing acceptance of Afro hair, discrimination is still seen today. Even in these modern times, Black people in the UK and the US are still faced with discrimination for wearing their hair in ways that reflect their heritage. Afro hair and other natural hairstyles such as, locs, braids, and twists continue to be seen as 'unprofessional' and 'unacceptable' in many settings such as schools and workplaces, forcing Black people to face punishment or conform to Eurocentric beauty standards.
As a response to this mistreatment, the US introduced the CROWN Act which stands for 'Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair'. This act legally prohibits discrimination against textured hair and protective styles. Similarly, in the UK, legal protections and campaigns such as the Halo Code have helped fight against discrimination. The Halo code protects students and workers with hairstyles associated with cultural, ethnic and racial identities.
Cultural Appropriation of Black Hair
Another ongoing issue is the cultural appropriation of Black hair. Hairstyles such as braids, locs, cornrows and bantu knots have deep African cultural and historical roots. However, these styles are often adopted by non-Black people, especially in mainstream media, fashion and entertainment industries where their cultural significance is disregarded. One of the most damaging aspects of cultural appropriation is the double standard it reveals. When these hairstyles are worn in the media, fashion industry or entertainment industry, their hair is seen as trendy and they are praised and celebrated for wearing these styles, but when Black people wear the same styles they are discriminated against and seen as unprofessional and untidy.
The Rise of the Natural Hair Movement in the UK
The natural hair movement has grown significantly in the UK over the past few decades, becoming a powerful symbol of self-acceptance, cultural pride, and resistance to Eurocentric beauty standards. The growth of technology and the use of social media have helped encourage the Black community to embrace the beauty of natural curls and coils. Platforms like YouTube, Instagram, and blogs have become spaces where Black women and men can share tips, tutorials, and personal stories about transitioning from chemical relaxers to natural styles. This has created a sense of community and increased confidence in Black people to rock their natural hair. Events such as hair workshops and the growth of Black-owned businesses have also contributed to this shift.
Black Hair as Cultural Expression and Heritage
From Afros and locs to the intricate designs of cornrows, Black hair is a reflection of deep-rooted cultural ties. These styles are not just about the look; they carry generations of African traditions. Hair is also a powerful form of personal expression. Many Black individuals, especially in diaspora communities, use their hair to reflect stories of identity, resistance, and pride. The decision to wear natural hair, locs, braids or other traditional styles is often deeply rooted in cultural heritage and shaped by personal experiences.
Entrepreneurship and Black-Owned Haircare Businesses
The rise of Black-owned haircare businesses has been a transformative force in the beauty industry. Many mainstream beauty brands offer limited or inadequate products for Afro-textured hair. This caused a rise in Black entrepreneurs to fill this gap by creating products and services catered specifically to the needs of Afro-textured hair.
Black entrepreneurs have helped the Black community reclaim control over cultural identity and beauty standards. Many of these businesses have built a community of empowerment, self-love and acceptance, where their products encourage individuals to embrace their natural hair and educate them on how to take care of their natural hair properly. These successful businesses are a symbol of resilience and the power to redefine beauty standards.
Changing Perceptions of Black Hair
It is evident that there's been a significant shift in the perception of Black hair in recent years. Natural hair and other protective styles such as braids, twists and locs are increasingly being embraced by Black celebrities in the media, fashion and entertainment industry. Celebrities who wear these hairstyles are getting celebrated for it. They also use their platforms to encourage Black individuals to embrace their hair. This is further normalising Black hairstyles and encouraging Black individuals to wear them with confidence too. Although a slow but steady shift is being made, there is still a lot of work to be done to fully normalise Black hair across all industries.
Halle Bailey wearing locs in The Little Mermaid
Zendaya rocking blown-out Afro hair at The Met Gala 2017
The struggles and celebrations of Black hair are experienced by Black communities all around the world, but particularly in the UK and the US. Both countries share a history of discrimination against Black people but also share a legacy of resilience and cultural pride. Black hair is not just a fashion statement but a symbol of culture, heritage, identity and resistance. As we celebrate Black History Month, let’s honour what Black hair represents and always learn to love, embrace and be confident in your natural hair.