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Box Braids vs. Knotless Braids

(Picture by @emani.marie on Instagram)

Box braids are a classic, timeless protective hairstyle beloved by many. However, a newer and increasingly popular version of the style is knotless braids. While both are quite similar, there are key differences in how they’re installed, how they look and feel, and how they impact your scalp. In this post, we’ll explore the differences between box braids and knotless braids to help you decide which style is right for you.

What is the difference between box braids and knotless braids?

Understanding how these two styles vary can help you choose the one that best suits your hair, lifestyle, and preferences.

Installation Technique

The most fundamental difference lies in how the braids are installed. With traditional box braids, the extension hair is folded over your natural hair at the root, creating a visible knot at the base. This knot anchors the extension firmly from the start. Knotless braids, however, begin with your natural hair and gradually feed in small portions of extension hair as the braid progresses. This creates a seamless transition without the characteristic knot at the root.

Box Braids

half up half down box braids

Knotless Braids

Knotless Braids bun

Tension and Comfort

Box braids tend to have more tension at the scalp due to the knot securing the full weight of the extension immediately. This can sometimes cause discomfort, especially in the first few days after installation. Knotless braids distribute weight more evenly along the length of the braid, resulting in significantly less tension at the roots and a more comfortable wearing experience from day one. So if you have scalp sensitivity, this is an important point to consider as box braids may be too tight for you and cause pain.

Weight

Traditional box braids can feel quite heavy, particularly when done with thicker extensions or in greater quantity. The concentrated weight at the roots can sometimes cause strain on the scalp. Knotless braids generally feel lighter and more natural as the extension hair is distributed throughout the braid rather than concentrated at the root. However, as new growth emerges, there would be added weight to both types of braids, so it's always important to remove them at the right time. Check out our post on 'How Long Can I Keep My Braids In For?' to learn more about the ideal time to take down your braids.

Installation Time

Box braids typically take less time to install as the technique is more straightforward. Knotless braids require more precision and a more gradual feeding-in process, which often means a longer appointment time. However, for both braid types, the smaller the braid size, the longer it will take to install.

Styling

Due to the knot at the roots, box braids are less flexible and lift slightly off the scalp. Knotless braids are more flexible and lay flat against the scalp, giving it a more natural look. So, if you prefer flatter braids, knotless braids may be a better option. For both types of braids, you can style them in various ways, from hair down looks to updos.

Longevity and Maintenance

Knotless braids do not last as long as box braids due to the feed-in installation technique. In terms of maintenance, box braids tend to last longer before needing a touch-up, as the secure knot helps maintain the style's integrity, whilst knotless braids may need maintenance slightly sooner. However, knotless braids generally allow for easier access to the scalp for cleansing and moisturising, which can improve overall scalp health during the styling period.

Growth

Knotless braids accommodate new growth more naturally, with less obvious difference between the braided and unbraided portions as your hair grows. This can make them more versatile for styling.

Once you've decided which braids style is right for you, book your appointment with the top London braiders here.

For more Black hairstyle tips, inspiration, and how to's on Afro hair care, explore our Afro hair tutorials.

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