When it comes to caring for Afro and curly hair, there is no one-size-fits-all approach. You may have found your sister's or friend's perfect product combo may have not worked for you. It will take a lot of experimenting and trial and error to find what works best for you. But the first step to discovering your perfect hair care routine is to understand your hair type. Each curl pattern is unique and needs its own care routine.
In this guide, weβll break down how to care for the different hair types, focusing on type 3 and type 4 hair. From 3a to 4c, weβve got you covered. So let's get started.
What Are The Different Hair Types?
Hair typing is a system that categorises your curl pattern. Type 3 hair includes looser curls, while type 4 hair has tighter coils and kinks. Within these categories, there are also subtypes which give more detail about the curl's tightness and behaviour.
Here's a quick breakdown:
- Type 3a β Loose, well-defined S-shaped curls
- Type 3b β Springy ringlets with more volume and frizz
- Type 3c β Dense corkscrew curls that are tight and voluminous
- Type 4a β Defined, soft coils with an S-shaped pattern
- Type 4b β Z-shaped, fluffy coils with less definition
- Type 4c β Tightest coils, very dense with no clear curl pattern
For a more detailed explanation of the different hair types, check out our post on hair types explained. Each hair type has different care needs, but before we get into that, let's look at some general tips you must know regardless of your hair type.
General Tips for All Hair Types
- Know your porosity. This affects how your hair absorbs and retains moisture. High porosity needs heavier products; low porosity benefits from lighter layers and heat to open the cuticle. Check out our post on what is hair porosity to learn what porosity you have.
- Using the right technique for your hair porosity. You should use the right moisturising technique depending on your hair's porosity. High porosity hair benefits from using the LOC moisturising technique whilst low porosity hair benefits from using the LCO moisturising technique. To learn more, check out our post on understanding porosity.
- Trim regularly. Split ends can cause breakage and damage to your hair which prevents length retention.
- Keep your scalp hydrated. For healthy hair, your scalp needs to be hydrated. Ensure your scalp is well moisturised by applying a lightweight oil to prevent dryness and itchiness.
- Protect your hair at night. Use a satin or silk bonnet, scarf or pillowcase to prevent frizz and moisture loss.
- Be patient. Natural hair thrives with consistent care and the right products - not with rushed routines or viral trends.
How to Care for 3a Hair
Everyday Care Tips:
- Only wash your hair 1-2 times a week.
- Use gentle, sulphate-free shampoos which won't strip your hair's natural oil. Sulphates can be drying so it's recommended to avoid products with it.
- Always condition your hair after washing to bring the moisture back into your hair.
- Use a curl mousse or gel to define your curls and hold them in place.Β
Product Recommendations:
- Sulphate-free shampoo
- Hydrating conditioner
- Lightweight curl mousse
- Lightweight gel
How to Care for 3b Hair
Everyday Care Tips:
- Aim to wash your hair once a week. Over washing will dry out your hair.
- Use a hydrating shampoo and conditioner when washing your hair.
- Moisturise your hair using a leave-in conditioner 2-3 times a week to keep your curls hydrated, healthy and bouncy.
- Use a hair mask or deep conditioner when you feel like your hair needs some extra hydration.Β
- Use lightweight products. 3b curls have a great natural bonce, so using heavy products will weigh down your curls.
- Avoid unnecessary heat to prevent your hair from drying out. Always moisturise and apply protection before, if you must use heat.
Product Recommendations:
- Sulphate-free shampoo
- Hydrating conditioner
- Lightweight leave-in conditioner
- Deep conditioner
- Hair masks
How to Care for 3c Hair
Everyday Care Tips:
- Only wash your hair 1-3 times a week. Over washing will strip the natural oils in your hair causing dryness and breakage.
- Use a wide tooth comb when detangling your hair to prevent curl damage.
- Use deep conditioners and leave-in conditioners to deeply hydrate your hair.
- Use curl mousses to help define your curls.
- Refresh your curls between wash days by lightly spraying it with warm water. This will help reactivate the products you've applied before.
Product Recommendations:
- Sulphate-free shampoo
- Hydrating conditioner
- Lightweight leave-in conditioner
- Deep conditioner
- Lightweight curl mousse
How to Care for 4a Hair
Everyday Care Tips:
- Use LCO/LOC method to moisturise your hair depending on your hair porosity.
- Detangle your hair using your fingers or a wide tooth comb before washing.
- Pre-poo your hair before washing to add extra moisture before shampooing.
- Refresh your curls using oils and leave-in conditioners.
- Deep condition regularly to keep your hair hydrated and prevent it from drying out.
- Styles like twist-outs and flat twists help define curls while minimising shrinkage.
Product Recommendations:
- Sulphate-free shampoo
- Hydrating conditioner
- Hydrating oils such as coconut, argan, olive or castor oil as a pre-poo treatment
- Lightweight leave-in conditioner
- Deep conditioner
How to Care for 4b Hair
Everyday Care Tips:
- Always gently detangle with your fingers and a slip product. Using combs or brushes is too harsh and can cause breakage.
- Only wash your hair when you need to. Washing more than necessary will strip your natural oils making your scalp and hair dry and increasing hair loss.
- Focus on moisture. Use products with moisturising ingredients.
- Deep condition regularly to restore and lock in moisture, keeping your hair soft, bouncy, and less prone to breakage.
- Wear low-tension protective styles.
Product Recommendations:
- Sulphate-free shampoo
- Hydrating conditioner
- Lightweight leave-in conditioner
- Deep conditioner
How to Care for 4c Hair
Everyday Care Tips:
- Always finger detangle with a slip product to avoid breakage.
- Moisture is key. 4c is the driest curly hair type so hydration is a priority to avoid weak hair which is prone to breakage.Β
- Use a pre-poo treatment to add a layer of moisture before washing, so less moisture is lost during the washing process.
- Use hair masks to hydrate and strengthen your hair.
- Deep condition regularly to lock in moisture, give your hair a hydration boost and keep it healthy and bouncy.
- Wash your hair only when necessary, and do so in sections to ensure thorough cleansing, complete product removal, and reduced tangling.
- Wear low manipulation styles.
Product Recommendations:
- Sulphate-free shampoo
- Hydrating conditioner
- Hydrating oils such as coconut, argan, olive or castor oil as a pre-poo treatment
- Lightweight leave-in conditioner
- Deep conditioner
- Hair masks
Learning how to care for your hair type is the first step towards maintaining healthy natural hair. But always remember regardless of your hair type all curls and coils are beautiful and embrace them to the fullest.
For more natural hair tips, how to's on Afro hair care and Black hairstyle inspiration, explore our Afro hair tutorials.